Here are a few logo designs we are thinking of using so that the Dust To shine brand is more recognisable.
Dust To Shine Domestic Cleaning Logo
Domestic Cleaning Logo visual 2 Dust To Shine
If you have hired a cleaner who has not been trained properly you may find that accidents and or damage have happened. It is important to check your cleaner has home cleaning insurance in place. Else what seamed as a good idea to hire a cheap cleaner can become a very expensive.
Welcoming on board our new cleaner in Camden Town Winney she has been helping clean family homes in North London for the past five years. Joining our team of reliable helpful cleaners we have been advertising for new cleaner as we are growing so fast.
Do NOT use any other kind of cleaner before using an enzyme cleaner. The ingredients in regular cleaners may react negatively with an enzyme cleaner preventing it from being effective. Before you use any kind of cleaner, always do a test spot on the material to be cleaned (some cleaners will stain). Thoroughly soak the soiled area with the enzyme cleaner.
It’s very important to thoroughly saturate the area! Let the product soak for a few minutes, then blot up any excess cleaner with a clean cloth. Let the spot dry completely before allowing your pet back in the area. It is during the drying process that the bacteria in the urine will be broken down and the odor removed. Once the area is dry, do a smell check. If you still smell urine, treat the area again.
Sometimes it can be difficult to locate the source of the urine smell, especially when dealing with old stains. In this case a black light can be your key to finding the source of the smell. Urine stains that can’t be seen by the naked eye will fluoresce under a black light.
The same process can be used to remove the odors left behind from faeces. Remove all faeces from the soiled area using just water. Soak the affected area with an enzyme cleaner and allow to dry.
If the smell has been removed, but a stain still exists after using an enzyme cleaner, then a regular cleaner can be used. Avoid cleaners that are highly acidic, or that leave a residual ammonia odour. These two types of cleaners can mimic the smells of urine and actually encourage your pet to once again relieve himself in the soiled area.
A great neutral cleaner is plain white vinegar. It can be used full strength, or diluted 50/50 with hot water. It can be used to scrub carpets, upholstery, or to mop floors and will also help neutralize odours. Other neutral detergents or cleaners can also be used.
Next time: Procrastination. The enemy of home cleaning.
Fido or Felix has an accident on the rug and not only do we need to get rid of the stain, we also need to get rid of the smell! This can be a difficult home cleaning task.
It has happened to all of us who own pets: Feix or Fido has an accident on the floor and no matter what we do, we just can’t get rid of the smell! To understand how to remove pet odours, it’s important to first understand why they are so difficult to get rid of.
Animal urine in particular is very pungent. Urine is actually a very weak acid that also contains a lot of bacteria and salts, excreted from your pet’s body. Regular spray cleaners, detergents, or other scented cleaners will not remove the source of the problem. At best, they will only temporarily mask the smell from us, but not from your pet!
If your pet can still smell residual urine it will continue to “mark” that spot and you will be fighting a never ending battle. The only way to truly clean a soiled area and remove the smell is to attack the stain on a bio-chemical level.
There are many anti-pet odour products on the market that clean by using helpful bacteria and/or enzymes to naturally speed the decomposition of a pet stain. These products work by naturally breaking down the acid and bacteria in urine.
If you catch your pet in the act, immediately use a clean paper towel or cloth to absorb as much of the urine as possible. Gently blot the area, being careful not to force the urine down further into the fibers of the carpet and the padding underneath (if on a wood or other hard surface wipe up all the urine, then give the area a once over with a cloth dampened with water).
Continued in Part 2
WAXING WOOD
MATERIALS - Liquid wax, Clean rags (or brush or 0000 grade steel wool), Soft cloth and Buffing machine or fine steel wool pads or polishing pads (optional).
STEP ONE
Using a soft cloth, brush, or steel wool pad (which will not damage the surface of the finish), apply wax directly to the surface of the wood using light, circular motions. Apply sparingly, using just enough to coat the wood. Wax should be applied going against the grain. You can apply wax in hard-to-reach areas (like spindles, carved areas, and etc.) using cut-up rags, specialty pads, foam paint brushes, or smaller pieces of 0000 grade steel wool.
STEP TWO
Allow waxed wood to set naturally. Wax should remain on furniture or other wood for a minimum of 5-7 minutes. Many waxes can remain on wood for up to 75-minutes, if need be.
STEP THREE
Buff wood using a clean, soft cloth. On carved or detailed areas of furniture, you may need to use furniture brush or similar object to buff the area.
STEP FOUR
Apply a second coat of wax with a soft, clean rag, this time working with the grain of the wood. Again, use circular motions and apply only a thin layer of wax, making sure all areas are covered equally.
STEP FIVE
Allow wax to set for 60-75 minutes.
STEP SIX
Buff wood with a clean rag (or similar object previously mentioned). Once buffing is done, allow wood to sit overnight.
STEP SEVEN
Using a clean rag, buff wood once more, paying special attention to corners, hard-to-reach areas and blemishes.
Note: The more layers of wax that are applied and buffed, the more glossy your furniture’s finish will become. Many feel that 3-coats is a sufficient amount of wax to protect tables, cupboards, desks, and bedroom furniture. You may wish to coat chairs (and other furniture which receives heavy use) a fourth time.
TIPS AND TRICKS
NEVER pour wood wax directly on to wood. Always use a clean rag.
MINOR blemishes, cracks, and crevices in wood can be repaired with soft wax filler sticks.
CRACKS in dark woods can be covered by first applying a colored/pigmented wax, followed by a coating of clear wax.
Next home cleaning tip: Cleaning up after pets.
When it comes to home cleaning using the right wax can make a big difference.
WHY IS WAX-POLISH USED?
Wax polish works much like car wax: It protects the materials under the wax, while coating the exterior of the material, and adding a shiny, clean quality to the overall appearance. Wax-polish is used to protect the finish that’s already present on your furniture. It also creates a shiny, slick surface that repels dust, grit, dirt, and debris. Wax-polish lacks enough durability to protect outside furniture and other woods, but is very effective when used on interior woods and furniture.
WHEN SHOULD WAX POLISH BE USED?
Wax polish is best applied to wood which has been newly cleaned or recently varnished. Applying a fresh coat of wax over an old coat, will do nothing but create a buildup of wax. New woods should be thoroughly sealed with clear varnish before waxing and polishing.
HOW DO I CLEAN OLD WOOD?
You can remove old wax from wood in several ways:
TURPENTINE
Wax which has been sitting for many years is best cleaned and removed with thinners made of naptha or gum turpentine. Apply turpentine directly to the wood with a soft rag, and rub off (along the grain) with a piece of fine steel wool. You may need to repeat this step several times before completely removing old wax.
OIL
For easier jobs, a simple mixture of 1/4-cup linseed oil and 1/4-cup mineral spirits will work just as well. Apply with an old rag and remove with fine steel wool or paint removing pads.
COMMERCIAL PRODUCTS
There are several wood cleaners and wax removers on the market that require little more preparation than shaking the contents of the bottle. If you’ll be using a commercial pre-mixed product, be sure to read the label.
Not all wax removers can be used on all types of wood or wood finishes. Follow label instructions. Once you’ve cleaned the old wax from the wood, you’ll need to coat the surface with mineral spirits. Use a clean rag and apply spirits liberally. Allow wood to completely dry before proceeding.
Next: More on learning to wax all types of wood.
Learn how to wax all types of wood in just seven steps.
While dusting and cleaning wood with sprays and oils can help woods look rich, it doesn’t change the actual condition of the wood or provide protection to the wood’s finish. Wax polishing, on the other hand, can bring old, tired finishes to life and safeguard wood from future damage at the same time.
WHAT IS WAX-POLISH?
Wax polish is a semi-liquid made from a mixture of materials, including beeswax and carnuba. Waxes and wax-polishes can be applied on woods that have been finished with shellacs, varnishes or oils. Some waxes also contain ingredients like silicone, which makes wood appear glossy and slick to the eye.
There are many varieties of wood wax including:
PIGMENTED (COLORED) WAX can be used to enhance the color of the wood you’re working with or on unpainted wood surfaces which have been finished with shellac, varnish, or oil coating. Pigmented waxes can be used to conceal minor blemishes, such as nicks, cracks, and scrapes.
Pigmented waxes leave wood with a soft satin sheen. Many experts cover colored waxed woods with an additionalcoating of clear wax when they desire a more glossy effect.
CLEAR WAX can be used on wood furniture, whatever its original color or type of wood. Clear wax provides a deep shine and luster to wood. Generally speaking, the more layers of wax you add, the shinier your furniture will look.
PINE WAX is often used on light colored or unfinished furniture. When finished, woods have a yellowy-orange naturally deep, rich color. Pine wax is perfect for use on pine and other light colored woods, which have little appeal on their own. After using pine wax, a clear wax coating or wax polish can be applied to give a more lustrous look to the wood’s finish.
Look out for More home cleaning tips on waxing all types of wood.
Kentish Town was first recorded during the reign of King John (1208) I wonder if his cleaner did extra work cleaning the John. Domestic home cleaning in Kentish Town London NW5 has moved on from then. But as the saying goes every Englishman’s home is his castle so not much has changed. Except a turret or two.
1. TO HAVE A TIDY HOME:
BASIC CLEANING
Straightening up- 2x every week
Garbage- 2x every week
Dusting- 1x every other week
Dusting out of reach- 1x every month
Spot-cleaning walls etc.- 1x every other week
Washing walls- 1x every year
Vacuuming- 2-3x every month
Carpet spots- 1x every week
Shampooing carpets- 1-3x every year
Dusting blinds- quarterly
Washing blinds- 1x every year
CLEANING THE BATHROOM
Sinks- every day
Mirrors- 1x every week
Toilet- 1x every week
Wipe shower- 2x every week
Clean shower- 1x every week
KITCHEN CLEANING
Sink- 1x every week
Sweep floors- 1x every week
Mop floors- 1x every week
Wax floors- 1x every month
Clean stove/oven- as needed
2. TO HAVE A CLEAN HOME:
Straightening up- 4x every week
Garbage- 3x every week
Dusting- 1x every week
Dusting out of reach- 2x every month
Spot-cleaning walls etc.- 1x every week
Washing walls- 1x every year
Vacuuming- 1x every week
Carpet spots- 2x every week
Shampooing carpets- 2-4x every year
Dusting blinds- 6x every year
Washing blinds- 1x every year
CLEANING THE BATHROOM
Sinks- every day
Mirrors- 2x every week
Toilet- 1x every week
Wipe shower- 4x every week
Clean shower- 1x every week
KITCHEN CLEANING
Sink- 3x every week
Sweep floors- 2x every week
Mop floors- 1x every week
Wax floors- 1x every month
Clean stove/oven- as needed
3. TO HAVE A SPOTLESS HOME:
Straightening up- 7x every week
Garbage- 3x every week
Dusting- 3x every week
Dusting out of reach- 1x every week
Spot-cleaning walls etc.- 3x every week
Washing walls- 2x every year
Vacuuming- 4x every week
Carpet spots- 7x every week
Shampooing carpets- 1x every month
Dusting blinds- 1x every month
Washing blinds- 2x every year
CLEANING THE BATHROOM
Sinks- every day
Mirrors- every day
Toilet- 2x every week
Wipe shower- every day
Clean shower- 2x every week
KITCHEN CLEANING
Sink- every day
Sweep floors- 5x every week
Mop floors- 2x every week
Wax floors- 1x every month
Clean stove/oven- as needed
A useful guide to organizing your home can be found here.
Next time: Home Cleaning tips for the bathroom